A name on a wine label is a legal claim, not a marketing flourish. Here is what it actually promises, from 1907 French riots to the loophole that created Super Tuscans.

Old World bottles look like they are hiding something. They are — it is just hidden in the label, in plain sight, in French.

It's the word every wine list throws at you. Here's what it actually means, and why it matters for what you order next.