You would not call all red wine Burgundy. Stop calling all sparkling wine Champagne — six styles, one gas, six genuinely different drinks.

A name on a wine label is a legal claim, not a marketing flourish. Here is what it actually promises, from 1907 French riots to the loophole that created Super Tuscans.

Old World bottles look like they are hiding something. They are — it is just hidden in the label, in plain sight, in French.